Why you should have your very own bee-utiful Bee Garden

by Steven Clark—Clark College’s Bee Campus Manager

We have Bee Gardens at Clark College and I love them. I love the beautiful flowers—but they weren’t designed for me. The colors, the nectar even the shapes of the flowers were designed to make bees like the flowers! The colors, shapes and the nectar reward are all evolutionarily designed to induce bees to visit the flowers and to unwittingly transfer pollen from the male part of one flower to the female part of another flower. All this beauty is to foster flower seed production.

And while I enjoy the beauty of the flowers, I also have come to enjoy seeing the many different species of bees on the flowers. If you establish a bee garden, you may attract over 30 bee species per day on your flowers. That’s more bee species in your yard than birders get when they put out bird seed!

Not only is a bee garden beautiful and helpful for hungry, native bees, but bee gardens are natural. And when you create natural habitat, you help hummingbirds, butterflies, some beetles, flower flies, and in turn, the birds that eat insects…in short, the most beneficial thing to do for an ecosystem is to create a bee garden because when you start low on the food chain—with insects—everything above the food chain benefits. I get a real satisfaction knowing that areas of Clark College—and areas of my own yard—are benefiting the ecosystem. And it all starts with a flower garden.

image of native flowers growing in a yard
 
   
 

How to establish a Bee Garden in your yard

1

Find a spot

The first thing to do is find a place to make a garden. You might start small to keep everything easy in the first year. I have a Bee Garden at my home in the parking strip between the sidewalk and the street. It’s 40 feet long and 3 feet deep and bees love it—so do the neighbors.

2

Get rid of grass

Most grasses are non-native and they will dominate any flower seeds. There are several ways to get rid of grass. Here are several ideas:

  • Spray the grass with an herbicide. Since grass is an invasive, non-native, I have have few qualms about initially killing the grass with an herbicide. After the grass is dead and brown, hoe or till the sod so flower seeds can land on dirt and germinate. As a rule, flower seeds dropped onto lawn (even dead lawn) that do not come into contact with dirt and will struggle to germinate.
  • Till or hoe the area. At Clark College, we tilled the lawn. The grass didn’t die but it was disrupted. After a couple weeks, the chunks of turf used some of their stored calories and sent shoots of grass up. Then we tilled a second time. Again shoots came up but they were enfeebled. We tilled a third time and now the grass was so weakened that flower seeds could compete.
  • Some people cover the grass tightly with clear plastic and let it sit through the hottest summer months. The heat and greenhouse effect kill the grass. Then, hoe or till the dead sod.
  • Others cover the grass with something dark (boards, leaves, newspapers) and deprive the grass of light until it dies. Then hoe or till the dead sod.

3

Buy flower seeds

The absolute best seeds are flower seeds that are native to the Pacific Northwest. Native means that those seeds have co-evolved with the native bee species of the Northwest and bees prefer these. All flowers have pollen, so even your non-native daffodils and apple trees benefit bees, but native flowers is a clear step above. Expect to pay more, but the native flowers will be appreciated by the hungry bees.

4

Best time to plant

The best time to plant seeds is when the flowers themselves would naturally drop the seeds they produce—often in the fall. In our first year as a Bee Campus, we sowed our seeds at Clark in February. Very late! But they still bloomed (but we probably would have had more blooms had we sowed in the fall. November is a good time to sow because many plants have died back and there’s more exposed dirt. The new flower seeds love the months of cold, the rain, the occasional freeze—all those things boost germination rates.

5

Bumblebees first

If you have flowers in March (more likely in year two because perennials will pop up earlier than the seeds you sowed) you will get your first bees and they will probably be bumblebees. Bumblebees emerge from their winter nests earlier than other bees. By May, you will start to get more and more bees. The height of bees will probably be late June.

6

Things to avoid

  • Once you’ve planted, keep chemicals away, they will harm your natural garden.
  • When flowers die, leave them in the garden; they will drop seeds and leaves and benefit the soil for next year.
  • Love any bare dirt! Seventy percent of our native bees make nests in the ground and the females will search any bare soil for a place to lay eggs for next year’s bees.
7

At the end of the season

In October and November leave the garden natural. Let the leaves fall, let the plants decompose and enrich the soil. You can pull any non-native grasses that may have crept in. I usually add a few new flower seeds even though the existing flowers likely sprinkled their seeds on the ground for next year.

8

During the winter months...

...two things are happening. First, the babies in the underground bee nests are maturing and will emerge in spring. Second, the seeds are undergoing slight changes that make them more likely to germinate in March. So even though the garden looks "dead", there are important things happening. Let them happen.

Come learn more about bees at Clark College and see why we are certified as a Bee Campus!